FOOD + DRINK

Paving the way: An interview with Carmen Stevens

Resilient and steadfast, the country’s first black winemaker, Carmen Stevens, pushed against the norm in a post-apartheid South Africa.

Her journey to becoming a winemaker started in 1990, when she applied to study vinification; however, she was rejected three years in a row because of her race (1990), the fact that she didn’t have an agriculture background (1991) and because she did not serve in the military (1992).

Not one to back down, Stevens pushed back and was eventually accepted to start her studies in 1993.

“I worked at Distell for five years, Company of Wine People for five years, and Amani Vineyards for eight years,” she said. “In 2010, someone from the United Kingdom gave me an opportunity. He said, ‘If you make the wine, we will buy the wine. That was the start of Carmen Stevens Wines – and we have been growing year on year to the point we opened our own winery in Stellenbosch.”

She always knew that she wanted to be in the wine industry, she said.

“I always knew that I wanted to be a winemaker – since I was 12 years old. Reading novels opened that idea to me; it was also the very first time that I read about Chateaux.”

Being the first black South African to study the art of winemaking in the country, she said that yes, she was the first to be accepted to study vinification, but she was not the first to be interested in the field.

I was the first in my family to study at a college, and being the first black person and a woman, the world suddenly was open to women from our communities to be anything they could dream of.

“To me it meant a new world opened. I was the first in my family to study at a college, and being the first black person and a woman, the world suddenly was open to women from our communities to be anything they could dream of,” Stevens said.

“When you enter what was kept from our people, challenges will always be a part of the journey. Those challenges were many and huge, and I had to develop tools and ways to cope to stay sane. The years 1993 to 1995 are years that I never want repeated. But looking back now, I realise my struggle opened the door for others to enter this industry. I am glad to be that for others.”

And the significance of this journey is evident in the high-quality wines she produces. “Every bottle of our wines carries our fingerprint. This means we are committed to producing award-winning wines of excellent quality – both locally and internationally.”

Commenting on whether people of colour, and especially women, are represented enough in the industry, Stevens feels that a lot more can be done.

“No, we are not, but that being said, there are more black women winemakers than black men winemakers in the South African wine industry. The South African government, together with the European Union, are investing funds to address the inequalities of the industry.”

Stevens has many an accolade to her name. She recently received the Visionary Leadership award from the industry. In 2018, she was winemaker of the decade in the United Kingdom, and in 2015, winemaker of the year in California. Most notably, one of her biggest achievements was opening the very first 100% black-owned winery in South Africa.

Stevens also founded a foundation to pour back into her community. “I started a small soup kitchen in 2011. We provided a cup of soup to between 300 and 500 leaners, three times a week at three schools. The number grew each year, and today – because of our wines and our footprint in the UK – we are now providing breakfast and lunch to 25531 learners in 125 schools in the Western Cape,” she said.

“We provide the child with the ability to focus at school, make school their go-to place and assist the child to rise from their circumstances. Apart from providing food, we also provide hampers during school holidays. We try to instil a spirit of entrepreneurship in learners – and we also provide school shoes, sanitary pads for girls, and more.”

And what is Stevens’ advice to aspiring winemakers of colour? “Make sure this is what you want to do. If so, go get the best education on the subject, travel to get international experience and taste as extensively as possible to understand what the market wants.”

Quick-fire Q&A

What is your favourite varietal, and why?

I love the challenge that goes with making amazing Sauvignon Blanc and enjoy making Bordeaux-style blends to show my skill in understanding different soil types that compliment Cab Sauv, Cab Franc and Merlot that is not hard and green on nose and taste – and with this, I show my overall blending skill.

If you could have the ultimate food-and-wine pairing, what would that be?

I love depth of flavour in both food and wine – so a light fish that shows the freshness of the sea paired with a wine that is balanced so gracefully that it does not overshadow the fish.

If you could sit down with anyone for a wine tasting – alive or no longer with us – who would that be, and why?

Our former president Nelson Mandela. If it was not for the sacrifices of this amazing man, I would not be a winemaker today. I want to thank him by showing him what he made possible for me and so many that followed after.

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