Lead image taken by Di Brown (@roaming_giraffe)

I leave pieces of my heart in the Karoo… parts of it fall on the rocky soil, some are absorbed by the balmy rays, and others remain etched into the rocks where I lay my head…

We arrive at Cape Country Routes’ enchanting three-star New Holme Nature Lodge after about a nine-hour fun-filled road trip in a safe and comfortable Next-Gen Ford Everest Wildtrak. Situated in the Karoo Gariep Nature Reserve – one of two nature reserves of the newly branded Khoisan Karoo Conservancy – it is a working farm where you will find a myriad of sheep, game and other wild life.

We are greeted by buoyant owner, PC Ferreira, who quickly ushers us in to the main area of the lodge, and we are treated to some much-needed refreshments. Formalities and introductions out of the way, he gives us a brief tour of the various accommodation options on site.

I check into one of the charming and spacious stable rooms, and find myself taken by its otherworldly charm. The sliding door leads out to a quaint little patio where I sit soaking in the sun, beams delicately warming my skin – petite shadows projecting on my arm. The river can be seen from here, and if the wind quiets down, you can hear its gentle, soothing flow. There’s something profoundly spiritual present, and I contemplate the reason why I’m experiencing such a deep sense of longing – and belonging.

Back inside, and after a brief afternoon siesta, I meet my fellow intrepid explorers in the dining area where we plonk around a comforting fire. Hospitality at its finest, we chortle chuckles and feast on a delicious homely meal. My eyes wander to encounters with other guests; and I notice the warmth and kindness with which we are all being treated. I feel relaxed, at ease – like I’m not only a visitor, but also a friend.

The next morning, after a scrumptious breakfast, we journey to neighbouring farm, Mieliefontein (owned by PC’s mother), where we leisurely amble through the vast gardens. It’s absolutely breathtaking, and I wish that I could stay here a little longer – breathing in the scent of soil and fresh vegetation. As we tour more of the grounds, PC passionately conveys his plans to pay it forward: he envisions a skills training centre for people of the nearby towns and communities – to teach and uplift them – as well as a safehouse where survivors of gender-based violence can come and find refuge. Grand plans, indeed, and ones that speak to the heart and values of these compassionate people.

We have the afternoon at leisure, and I take a brief stroll around. That persistent feeling of déjà vu envelops me again as I put one foot in front of the other on the dusty road. Surely I have roamed here before…

As the sun slowly starts to caress the horizon, we take a drive to the river where we hope to encounter the only hippo in the Karoo. I’m excited, no, thrilled, at the prospect of making his acquaintance. Once a region where hippos were found, settlers shot and killed these animals, rendering them extinct in the area. But now, PC and team have plans to reintroduce more of these semiaquatic mammals to this region.

Perhaps he’s a shy fellow, or not really in the mood, but the hippo is a no-show. Instead, with drinks in hand, we take in the scenic view of the river before heading back.

Our last day at New Holme is filled with wonder. Off on a guided 2 km walk in the koppies, we encounter petroglyphs left by the San; etchings that are steeped in symbolic and spiritual meaning. PC captivates us with some of the history of the land: here, early stock farmers were in conflict with the San and many battles took place. My mind veers off to that bygone era, and this eerie sense of familiarity engulfs me again. PC echoes my sentiments – this is a deeply spiritual place, and its essence is almost tangible.

As the evening draws near, we watch the sun set over the dam; the silhouettes of birds and bush becoming more pronounced as we slowly step into darkness. We feast on braai beneath the deep serene, the flames of the fire illuminating the joy on our faces. We talk, bellow with laughter, and then sit in silence – rendered mute by our exquisite surroundings.

We briefly head back to the lodge for some coffee and koeksisters before we embark on what was one of my favourite activities: a Shy Five night drive, where, hopefully, you will encounter some of the nocturnal wildlife. We are fortunate enough to spot spring hares, a few aardwolves, porcupine and Cape fox. And… as we slowly approach a bend, there – in the company of some buffalos – we spot the hippo! As he is, quite literally, in the spotlight, he hastily wanders off, clearly not keen to interact with these humans.

Ah, what a lovely ending to a lovely day; to a lovely stay. Before bed, I reluctantly clean the dust off my hands and face; afraid that with every rinse, I might just wash away the very special memories made here. But, much like the etchings engraved on those rocks in those koppies on the farm – so the spirit and people of the Karoo will forever remain chiseled in my heart.